Mask Project

The intention of this project is to create a basic shape to be moulded and then cast. This will save me using a load of silicon for the Carmine helmet and messing it up as I've never used it before.

I'm going for a mask similar to the airsoft ones you can buy, but with a more simply rounded shape. Just something to get familiar with the silicon as a material and to show off some Arduino code I've been learning.


This is quite easy as I am using a bike helmet as the main form, which saves time trying to make a new shape from scratch. It was already the kind of shape I wanted, so made sense. My helmet was too small for my face to fit in, so I will have to make it in two parts, Then joint them after they have been perfected.

I covered the helmet in cling film and then foil as not to ruin the helmet. I don't think the cling film was that necessary, more for peace of mind. The foil works really well  and can be used on other things, and with the way it creases you can get it in gaps.

I then laid down some fibreglass cloth and polyester resin over the space I wanted the first half to take up.

After this was dry, I coated it in body filler. You're going to to a number of coats (with sanding inbetween) so do a thin layer of body filler for each. It's much easier to apply the perfect amount of filler than to have to sand away a load. Ice lolly sticks work amazingly for this.

You want to perfect each piece while it is still attached to the helmet, as it moves less whilst working on it.

Carmine Helmet Update 1: Pepakura Build

Pepakura is a program that takes 3D files and breaks them down so you can print out the pieces on A4 card and stick them together to create the object.

First download the program, then open up a pepakura file with. You can get these files from all over the place.

There's a pretty cool Wiki with a big collection of Gears of War pepakura files, which is where I found the file for Carmine's helmet.

This will form the foundation shape which will be built up on with fibreglass and body filler.

Before printing make sure you scale the model so that it will fit. I didn't need to do this as it was the right size. A quick Google can help with this.

Printing:

PRINT ON CARD - Do not print onto A4 paper then glue to card. I did this form my last project and the glue makes the card bend, which gives you bent pieces, resulting in the final piece being wonky.

If you don't have a printer you can create a PDF using PDFCreator saving you installing pepakura on another computer. PDFCreator is fre.

Cutting and Scoring:

Cutting and scoring takes quite a while and can get tedious. I recommend putting a film on in the background. This will keep you mentally occupied and also act as a time keeper, making sure you don't procrastinate. Cutting all the pieces, and then scoring all the pieces.

Craft knife for Cutting, Scissors (tip of blade) for Scoring.

When cutting, you want to cut through all solid lines. Each piece you cut, mark on the back the page number it was on, and keep all those pieces in one location. Same for every page.

Scoring - There are two types of lines to score, valley folds and mountain folds. Scoring allows for much cleaner folds.

Mountain - - - - - - - -   Fold outwards (towards you) Fold = peak of mountain.

Valley _._._._._._    Fold inwards (away from you) Fold = base of valley.

Before I start scoring my pieces, I mark all the valley folds as these can be difficult to see once scored.

Sticking:

When I first started doing pepakura, I used sellotape. USE A GLUE GUN. It is definitely worth the investment, it is stronger than sellotape.

Cocktail sticks are very handy for holding glued pieces together while the glue dries, and the glue can be quite hot.

A fan is also useful, as it cools the glue quicker, leaving you holding pieces in place for less time. Also if you do find yourself having to use your fingers to hold bits together, the fan will sometimes make the glue heat a little more bearable.

Numbers on the pieces connect to the same number on another piece or the same piece.

When gluing it is best to glue on the inside of the helmet as this will save time when refining the shape. But sometimes it can't be helped, no worries, this external can be removed with a hot knife in the hardening stage.

One side of my final pepakura model was slightly off, but looked fine when pinched. Instead of pinching it in place during the hardening which would've not been very practical, I used a cocktail stick to create a clamp type thing.

See where the stick goes in through the top and out the bottom. This was poked through, then glue was added just to the bottom portion of the stick. When that dried, I pulled the top of the stick taught, then glued it so it would stay in place.

The stick acts as the pinch, with the bottom portion  as my thumb, and the top with my index finger.

The next update will cover fibreglassing (resin and cloth) and the first stage of hardening.

Gears of War: Carmine Helmet

I've decided to make Benjamin Carmine's helmet from the Gears of War game.

As I'm still learning, it doesn't matter if it isn't 100% symmetrical. Just as long as if it did appear in a film it would still look convincing.

I like this one as opposed to the others, and this also gives me the chance to play with the lenses and lights for the eyes.

So basically the steps for this will be:

- Pepakura Build
- Hardening (mat/cloth)
- Applying Body Filler
- Making Mould
- Resin Casting
- Painting
- Eye Lens
- Lights

These will be looked into in much more depth in the updates.

Space Ship Film Set

For my final project at uni, I chose to make a spaceship interior set. But to fit in with the course, I had to make the film also. Having to take on the majority of the film’s roles myself, as well as building the set alone; I feel the end film was hindered, including the set. It didn’t end up how I intended, but having never taken on a project like it, I can’t complain; I learnt a lot.

The entire set including props, cost me around £800, and was made with mostly free pallet wood and scraps.

You can read the full write up here.

First Post

As a budding prop maker and set builder training himself to become a professional, I will chart my projects from start to finish, allowing others to learn from my endeavours.

Each update will be in the for of new posts, however once a project is complete, a PDF download is made available of all project updates.

Hope you enjoy,

J Man